LANG DULAY (+2015)
Textile Weaver
T’boli
Lake Sebu, South Cotabato
1998
Using abaca fibers as delicate as hair, Lang Dulay communicates more powerfully through her weaving than words ever could. Her skilled hands bring to life images from the ancient history of her people, the Tbolis. Crocodiles, butterflies, flowers, mountains, and streams from Lake Sebu, South Cotabato—where she and her ancestors were born—fill her fabric, embodying a deep desire to preserve their memory. Through her art, Lang Dulay strives to keep her people’s traditions alive.
Few traditional weavers of tnalak, the Tboli cloth, remain today. The reason is clear: the process is painstakingly laborious. It begins with extracting fibers from abaca plant stems, refining them into finer threads, drying them, and hand-tying each strand. The next step involves carefully arranging the threads on a bamboo “bed-tying” frame and deciding which strands to tie to resist dye, a process that determines the final design. The intricate bud or tying of the fibers is what shapes the patterns, making tnalak weaving a true testament to patience and artistry.
A roll of tnalak is carefully set on a backstrap loom, named for the broad band the weaver uses against her back to create tension. This process places significant strain on the weaver’s back and eyes, especially since Tboli women often work in the fields to supplement their family’s income. Weaving is reserved for after farm work, and due to the abaca fibers becoming brittle under the midday sun, it is typically done during the cooler hours of early morning or evening.
Lang Dulay is a master of her craft, familiar with over a hundred designs, such as the bulinglangit (clouds), bankiring (hair bangs), and kabangi (butterfly), each carrying its own story. Using red and black dyes, she weaves these tales with elegance, creating textiles that embody the wisdom and visions of her people.
Before the 1960s, the Tboli traded tnalak for horses, which were vital to their livelihood. The establishment of the St. Cruz Mission, which supported the community’s weaving and provided a market for their products, helped tnalak designs gain widespread recognition. This allowed weavers like Lang Dulay to earn a steady income. However, the growing demand led to the commercialization of the tnalak industry, with outsiders imposing their own designs on Tboli weavers.
Ironically, modern designs fetch higher prices and are easier to produce than traditional ones. Despite this, Lang Dulay remains committed to the traditional methods, honoring the legacy of her ancestors. Her textiles are celebrated for their fine, even yarn, tight weave, precise patterns, vibrant dyes, and flawless finish.
Lang Dulay began weaving at the age of 12 and has since dreamed of passing her skills to the younger generation. Four of her grandchildren have already begun learning the craft. Tboli weavers also observe certain taboos, such as passing an abaca thread over their bodies before weaving to prevent illness. Lang Dulay avoids using soap when washing tnalak or dyeing threads to preserve the purity of the abaca.
When she learned she was being considered for the Gawad sa Manlilikha ng Bayan award, Lang Dulay was moved to tears. She envisioned building a school where women in her community could refine their weaving skills, ensuring the survival of this cherished tradition.